Aiming the Bow When Engaging in Archery
The archer has a choice of methods of aiming, or sighting. They may be loosely classified into three groups: direct, indirect or point of aim, and the hunting aim.
The direct, or bow sight method of aiming has in recent years become increasingly popular on the target range and has gradually supplanted the indirect, or point of aim method of aiming.
The hunting aim, generally employed in combination with the high anchor, is favored by field shooters. This method of aiming, erroneously referred to as the instinctive method, is comparable with the wing shot’s method of pointing a shot gun when gunning for grouse or other fast flying birds. Neither shooter depends on mechanical sights of any kind. Both keep their eyes fixed on the target, fit the weapon, be it a bow or a shot gun, to the position indicated by this line of vision, and discharge the weapon.
Just as a good grouse shot cannot write out a step by step diagram on how to hit a grouse, neither is there a short course of instruction which will enable the archer to master the hunting aim. The grouse hunter acquires proficiency only through constant and repeated efforts to kill grouse. Note: The expert still misses lots of them. The archer will acquire the ability to judge unknown distances and to deliver an arrow to the mark only through continued practice. Once an archer has acquired this ability, he can draw and release an arrow quicker than by any other method. This is a distinct advantage when game is flushed from hiding by the hunter.
Using the high anchor, the hand is raised along the side of the face, and the head is tilted a bit to the right, to bring the right eye directly over the arrow. The arrow shaft is then lined up with the target. The top of the bow is also canted slightly to the right. Keep both eyes open and focused on the center of the target while shooting. As you draw, indirect vision will permit keeping the arrow in proper alignment.
The scores of target archers have shown consistent improvement since a sight has been adapted to use on the bow. Similar, in principle, to an adjustable rear sight on a rifle, the bow sight can be adjusted for elevation and windage, or horizontal deflection. The sight is affixed to the back of the upper limb of the bow, just above the grip. It permits the target archer to sight directly on the target, instead of using the former method of sighting over the point of the arrow at a point of aim. Since the anchor is a fixed point, raising or lowering the bow sight will incline the shaft of the arrow at an angle with the horizontal, and the trajectory of the arrow will be lowered or raised in relation to the horizon accordingly.
Manufactured bow sights range in price from $1.25 for the simpler type, to $6.00 for a bow sight designed for one of the well-known makes of metal bows. Regardless of the type of bow sight, it is wise to disregard any provisions the manufacturer has made to attach the sight to the bow with screws. A screw, inserted in a wooden or metal bow, creates a weak point. Disregard the screws and bind the sight to the bow with scotch tape. Adhesive tape will also serve well for this purpose. Attaching the sight in this manner, avoids the danger of damaging the fibers of the wooden bow, or creating a plane of weakness in the cross section of the wood or metal bow.
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Connecticut Whitetail Hunting 2006, Opening Day Action
This opening day was full of action but thin on venison. As a father, it was very gratifying season as my son joined me for the first time. He is 15, and it was such a pleasure to have him along to begin passing down the family hunting tradition.
We hunt in eastern Connecticut on 325 private acres. That is paradise in this part of the country. We set up on a ridge where it is real thick, you can hardly see 50 yards in most directions. Naturally, this is whitetail habitat! We rarely have hunted this part of the property so we scouted it out good and set up ground stands as we were sure the deer were up there during shooting hours.
I was maybe 100 yards from my son on the other side of the ridge where we could not see each other. We got in and set-up in the dark. It was cloudy and the wind was dead still. Just as the woods started to get light and legal shooting hours began, a doe wanders up to my son. She is maybe 20 yards away. My son and I agreed ahead of time that anything that presents a clean shot to him is going down, so this doe was fair game.
He got his 20 gauge shotgun up, but the does chest was behind a tree. He could see her head and hind quarters just fine, but not the vitals. He waited, wanting her to just clear the tree. As luck would have it she starts walking right toward him! He put his scope on her and she spots him in 2 seconds and freezes. She finally winds him and takes off. I was real proud as Kevin passed up a shot some rookies would take and we would spend the morning looking for a lame deer and he would feel real bad about it.
No more than 5 minutes goes by and I hear a twig snap. The sky is twilight still and all I can make out is the silhouette of two deer walking right down the ridge line between Kevin and I. One of the deer is BIG. They pass through Kevin and my agreed upon no-fire zone and present a shot to him. The big one is a 10 pointer.
As any experienced hunter knows bucks do not get that big by being stupid. Kevin brings his scope up and the buck freezes in his tracks. He proceeds to go through the blowing and stomping warning routine for about 5 seconds and he and doe take off like they are shot out of a cannon. Plenty of heart pumping excitement, and we were only 15 minutes into the season!
An hour passes and I catch motion. A doe is walking along a trail about 75 yards off. I pull my .270 and get my Leupold on her. There is a lot of vegetation and I just can not get a clean shot on her (we have both buck and doe tags to fill). She has no idea I am there but is playing a good game of hide and seek. After about 3 minutes of this she is out of sight.
No sooner do I look back to where I saw the first doe and there is another one! The whole scene plays out like I rewound a video tape. I cannot quite get a clean shot as she follows the exact same path as the first doe.
Somewhat frustrated as she leaves the area I catch motion back to where the does first appeared. The Monster 10 pointer is on the prowl. His nose is on the ground and he is following the path those does just took. Knowing I could not get a shot on the does I look around and decide to jump on a rock that is about 2 feet off the ground right next to a tree.
The bucks head goes behind some thick stuff so I have my chance and jump on the rock. I lean against the tree and scan in front of the buck for an opening to shoot through. I see my spot and put the scope there and wait for him. My heart is pounding but the gun is steady like I am on a bench rest as I force myself to concentrate. A family saying is: count the points when they are laying on the ground. Meaning of course the first order of business is drop the deer.
He meanders into my sight but it still is a little thick. Got the cross hairs behind the shoulder and started to apply pressure to the trigger. Then I let up. In the back of my mind I knew this was a 50-50 shot at a clean kill, and that is not good enough for any hunter. That big boy walked away never knowing how close he came to meeting his maker.
Kevin and I met up and exchanged stories of the mornings action while sitting on a log. Sharing these stories with my boy is what it is all about. It is a day I hope neither of us forget. Even though we left the woods empty handed, our memories were enriched forever.
Scott is an avid whitetail hunter and is a supplier of hunting optics. For more information please see http://www.theriflescopestore.com.
Small Game Field Shooting
The trail lead through a frost-touched multicolored forest, the oak and maple trees a riot of crimsons, deep reds and browns. A golden autumn haze filled the valleys, and if you listened you could hear quail calling lonesomely for the lost summer. Grant Hartwell and I were walking this ridge trail, as men should be doing each autumn, our minds on deer, light overnight packs on our backs, wholly content with the world.
While deer was the prime objective, a couple of grey squirrels for a stew wouldn’t be amiss, or for that matter a blue grouse.
Swinging around a bend we flushed a big old buster of a blue grouse. It angled up through the trees with a frantic beating of wings and perched on an oak limb about thirty yards away, neck outstretched, its nervousness reflected in its constant stepping about as it watched our every move. We remained perfectly quiet for a space of a few moments, knowing that the least untoward movement would touch off our hair triggered game at once. When it quieted down a bit, Grant eased over a few steps toward the huge mossy bole of an oak, rested his forearm against it for the shot.
I waited intently, my pulse surging just as strongly as if he had a big buck under his sights. The silence was shattered by the roar of his .30/30 Model 99 Savage. The grouse tumbled from its lofty perch into the deep mast under the trees, drummed frantically for a moment then lay still. I walked over and picked up our quarry. Its head had been neatly severed by that 170 grain slug, an excellent bit of small game field shooting.
Small game field shooting has problems of positions which merit a lot of study and practice by hunters. Fortunately there is no essential difference between small and large game shooting, and what is learned in the small game fields is directly applicable to big game coverts. Each places emphasis on the time element, practical accuracy and range picture.
Quite often the decision as to shooting position is made by the game itself. A squirrel alerted by your careful stalking, waiting for a tip-off from you before taking to the security of its den tree, has so compressed the time element you have in which to get off the shot, you must take it from the position in which you find yourself more often than not a snapshot off-hand.
When Art Richardson and I were hunting ground squirrel that early June morning, taking them “field run” each shot was governed by the game itself, to a great extent. Squirrels scurrying toward the protection of their burrows had snap shooting written all over them. Those which stood up momentarily to inspect their surroundings had the same urgency in their attitude.
Essentially, there are three basic field shooting positions which are practical, and used for more than ninety-eight per cent of all field shooting. These three positions are: standing, sitting and kneeling. The prone position can sometimes also be used in long range woodchuck sniping and in mountain hunting. But a too slavish use of the prone position tends to deliberateness wholly at odds with field accuracy because of the time element usually interjected by the game itself. Modifications of the three prime field shooting positions: sitting, standing and kneeling, are almost infinite in number.
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A Guide to Hunting Knives - Skin Like a Mad Man and Look Good Doing It
Hunting knives are more than a tool for most hunters. A hunting knife is a conversation piece and whether the rugged hunter will admit it or not, it is part of the stylish wardrobe.
You will find that most avid hunters own five to ten guns. But, no hunting kit is complete without the skinning knife. The hunter will have another five to ten knives to compliment his/ her gear.
There are so many hunting knives on the market these days. The prices and quality can vary so much that the task of finding a knife can be overwhelming.
To begin with, the hunter should look for something that visually appeals to him/ her. Let’s face it, we like something that looks good hanging on our belt line. Knife makers and manufacturers know this so they absolutely cater to this fact.
The hunting knife will be used predominately for skinning. So, keep the task in mind. Skinning and cleaning game can be quite the chore without a good blade to do the job. And I assure you, there is more to cleaning game than the actual blade.
The handle of the knife should be very comfortable to grip tightly. A good way to test the grip is to clench the handle with the knife still sheathed. Push the blade against a hard surface to simulate pressing and pushing. How does this feel on the wrist?
Ok, so we’ve established that the grip should be comfortable. Next, you will want to find a handle material that suits you. There are a slew of materials out there so I’ll just go over a few of my preferred.
You will find the Kraton handle to be quite versatile. This is a flexible polymer that is plastic-like and rubber-like at the same time. This material is comfortable to grip and practically indestructible. Fallkniven does wonders with the Kraton handles on their knives.
Many hunting knives utilize a stacked leather handle that looks very nice. The leather is treated repeatedly and hardened to the point that nothing is going to ruin it. This can be a comfortable handle if done properly. Take a look at some of the Marbles knives on the market to see an example.
The bone handled knives are very popular. They bring a bit of a nostalgic feel to the knife. These are tricky to implement into a comfortable grip. But, if done correctly, bone can be very ergonomic as well as downright pretty to look at.
The list of handles goes on and on so I’m not going to exhaust the fingers trying to give my take on every one. Just remember, go with what you think looks good combined with a good grip and feel.
The blade steel is very important in a hunting knife. Weather can cause the blade to rust quite quickly if you are not careful. A simple method to slow down rusting is to lube up the blade with oil and then run it into the sheath repeatedly. This keeps the inside of the sheath oily and your blade can rest in that. Every time you remove and replace the knife into the sheath, it gets a quick lubing.
Knife steels are simply high carbon stainless or non-stainless steel. High carbon stainless is rust resistant though harder to sharpen. Non-stainless high carbon rusts easier but is easier to sharpen. Pick your poison.
You will find that 440 steel holds a better edge and is easier to sharpen than the lower 400 series steels. Yes, all of these numbers do mean something.
ATS-34 steel is superior when it comes to keeping a sharp edge and it is definitely stronger than 440 steel so breaking the tip on this steel will be less likely. This steel is more common in hunting knives than most.
The strongest steel used commonly in knives is 420 steel. The drawback is that it doesn’t cut that well and can be a task to sharpen. However, your forearm will make Popeye envious. You will find this type of steel in more rough use knives like throwing knives.
There are the 440 series of steel. You will find the 440A, 440B and 440C. Each steel gets a bit better at holding an edge as the steel is improved. So, the 440C will require the least amount of sharpening to maintain bragging rights on that blade.
CPM-440V is the best stainless steel blade on the market in my opinion. You can find CPM-440V in many hunting and pocket knives. But, be prepared to pay for the quality.
Last but not least is G2 steel which you will find in most knives. This steel is much like 440C but is a bit stronger. Why do I say that it’s stronger? Because that is what everyone else says. And why make waves? Actually, in my experience, I don’t hesitate to do any prying with G2 steel, within reason.
Well, that’s my two cents on hunting knives. So remember…
*Buy one that looks good. A man’s got to be able to brag.
*A comfortable grip is a must. Arthritis is not.
*Steel is important. The easier it is to sharpen, the more you’ll have to sharpen it.
William “Cole” Doggett is an expert in knives and owns a successful Internet based website, Knife & Supply Company, LLC at http://www.KnifeSupplyCompany.com. His website is devoted to all things tactical law enforcement, military, outdoors and of course, Knives.
The Arguement of Need: Firearms Edition
With the New Year less than a month away, Democrats are poised to take control of the House and Senate. This change in power has begun the rumors of increased gun control legislation among a host of other liberal agenda programs. When it comes to gun control, there are two hot button issues which are going to be the focus; the re-instatement of the flawed Assault Weapons Ban and the complete removal of privatized ownership of the 50 BMG rifles. There have been a host of intellectually challenged justifications behind these but my personal favorites have been “Why do you need these?”.
That poses a very interesting concept on the basis of lawmaking. Regardless of the endless stream of data showing the decline of violence since the ending of the assault weapons ban or the statistical void of violence committed with 50 bmg, gun banners are trying to justify draconian regulations based on the need of gun owners and on the potential of the firearm to wreak havoc on society. Unfortunately, these arguments are often accepted by those who choose to take them at face value and never really dig into the potential such arguments make. Blatantly put, it is a full on assault on the rights of Americans not just the Second Amendment.
For those who would tend to favor such a ban, allow me to place the same arguments on some of society’s more common “household items”. Make no mistake, I am arguing absurdity by applying it other elements of daily life, no just the 2nd amendment. Let us start with private vehicles. The car is part of the American dream. We are literally indoctrinated with television, media, radio, and countless other adds to the benefits of private ownership of vehicles, however, the car is one of the leading killers in America. According to the national statistics as presented by NCSA Fatality Analysis Reporting System, over 43,000 people were killed in car related accidents. The silence of calls to ban cars has been deafening.
Let us apply the legal question of “why do you need these”. First of all, we have statistical information which shows unarguable proof these vehicles cause unusually high death rates in Americans. To begin, all cars which have the capability to exceed 80 miles an hour should be prohibited. The top legal speed limit in United States is 75 mph, therefore, car manufactures are encouraging crime and creating unnecessary risk to society by making cars for the private public with the potential to exceed the mandated legal speed limits.
How about swimming pools or watersports in general? According to the CDC 2003 fatality report, unintentional drownings ranked 2nd as cause of death in children under the age of 14. Why do children need to be near the water? Besides the joys of recreating in pleasant environment, there really isn’t a need for swimming pools or waterskiing. Bathtubs should be outlawed in favor of showers. Children under the age of 14 should be prohibited from fishing since there is no need to catch fish when the supermarket can provide them at whim.
I guess the real question then fall on who determines what is needed. What is the legal term for need? Really, to preserve life, all we NEED is shelter, food, and water. When we start basing policy of law on the concept of need and not on fact or statistical risk, we have in turn removed our legal claim to anything not defined as necessary with the opinion of those who mandate law upon us. The precedence of NEED is a slippery slope rank with the potential of eroded rights and wet with drool of anticipation of those who would strip us of what we have fought for and held so dear for over 2 centuries. FREEDOM. Not just freedom as defined by the needs of life, but FREEDOM as defined by the rights guaranteed by the Constitution and the bedrock foundation of this nation.
The assault on any individual right, no matter how “logical” it may sound has a prevailing legal effect overall the rights we have.
Kelsey Hilderbrand is an avid shooter, hunter, collector, outdoor writer, and founder of High Mountain Hunting Supply http://www.luvtohunt.com/
Good Quality Hunting Supplies
Have you ever been hunting? Well, if the answer is yes, then you probably are a regular. Growing up I knew a whole slew of hunters. That’s what it’s like in the small towns of Iowa.
While I’m certainly not one of those vegetarian extremists who will rant and rave till the sun goes down about shooting Bambi, I do however believe in laws. This is the result of having a Game Warden for a father. He always taught me about hunting and nature and how to stick within the laws.
You certainly should respect all creatures, whether you can outwit them or not. It’s not about killing, but about eating. Think about it. Many of us purchase a deer license for the new season and get our shotgun or bow ready for a good hunt, which in turn gives us a lot of meat.
This is a cheaper way to acquire that year supply of venison. Anyway, regardless of your reason for hunting, one thing is for sure. You are going to need some decent hunting supplies.
What do you hunt for? Rabbit, squirrel, deer, or maybe turkey? Each and every one of these game will require hunting supplies to some extent. The first thing you need to be sure of is the law. Make certain you purchase the correct hunting license for the correct game. This is imperative so that you can avoid being fined.
Once you have this process down, you’ll need to browse for hunting supplies. Are you hunting that deer with a shotgun or bow? Well, this is probably something you’ve already contemplated. So be sure to practice your shot before the big hunt. A target is much different than a live animal. Setting your sights on that deer or turkey can cause you to tremble a tad.
Other hunting supplies you will need are proper clothing, possibly a tree stand, animal call, whether deer or turkey, and a scent to blend in and attract that game. Once you’ve purchased these hunting supplies, you’re pretty much good to go for next time. Hunting is not too pricey if you do it right.
If you’re in search of some quality, yet inexpensive hunting supplies, your best bet these days is the Internet. Try a variety of outdoor websites like Cabela’s. Regardless of your hunting and fishing needs, you will find what you’re looking for in cyberspace. Happy hunting folks.
Chris Kennelly writes for Talkinmince article directory, to find more articles and resources go to http://www.talkinmince.com/top_authors.php and our blog http://www.talkinmince.com/tmblog/ which our publishers and writers contribute.
Finding Food and Water To Survive in the Wilderness
If you find yourself stranded outdoors, the key to your survival is finding three specific things: shelter, food, and water. Now, in some outdoor situations where the elements are not too severe, you can survive without shelter. But it is impossible to survive without food and water. Knowing what to do in the case of an emergency situation can go a long way towards making sure you get home in the best health possible.
A normal person can go three full days without water, and three weeks without food. So if you find yourself stranded, the first thing you need to find is water. Keep in mind that water in stagnant sources is often contaminated. In order to protect yourself, always travel with water purification options, such as halazone tablets or iodine drops. If you find moving water it is less likely to be contaminated. You can still add purification measures to the water to stay safe.
Always carry a container that you can fill with water. When you find a water source, fill your container. You will be more mobile if you have a water source you can carry with you. If you cannot find naturally occurring water, there are other ways to find water. Try collecting the dew off of plants. You can also collect rainwater. The juices of fish are a source of hydration, although not an appealing one. The thing to keep in mind, however, is that your ultimate goal is simply survival. Also, avoid doing too much physical activity if you are limited on water availability. The more exercise your body does, the more water it will need.
Finding food is less crucial, because you can live three weeks without food. There are places that you can find food in the wilderness fairly easily. If you brought emergency rations with you, save those until all of the natural sources of food have been exhausted.
What you eat will depend a lot on the amount of water available to you. Remember that it takes more water to digest protein than it does to digest carbohydrates. Also, naturally occurring carbohydrates, such as fruit, have water in them. So if you are in a limited water situation, fill up on carbohydrates, avoiding meat and other protein sources.
Make use of whatever fruits and berries you can find. If you are not familiar with the fruit you find, a good rule of thumb is to avoid any berries that are red or white. Most of the poisonous berries are either red or white in color. All grass seeds are edible. If you find a plant with an edible root, remember that there is tremendous nutritional value in eating the roots of plants.
Avoid eating wild mushrooms, unless you can clearly identify them. Most wild mushrooms are perfectly safe to eat, but there are several varieties that are poisonous, and if you do not know how to identify the safe ones it is best to stay away. Remember that insects such as grasshoppers and locusts are edible. You can eat them live or roast them. Frogs, lizards, and turtles are other sources of protein that are fairly easy to catch. While these foods might not be your first choice for Sunday brunch, remember your goal is survival!
John Edmond runs and writes regularly for http://www.livingandcampingoutdoors.com/ where you can read many more articles on outdoor living and recreation. Also go to http://www.wellspokenaudio.com/ for entertaining audiobooks on camping and much more.
Use For The Interceptor Body Armor
Interceptor is a kind of body armor fielded by the U.S. military that is more effective than traditional bulletproof vests.
The interceptor body armor system consists of an Outer Tactical Vest (OTV) and two Small Arms Protective Inserts (SAPI). The OTV is lined with finely woven Kevlar KM2 aramid. The vest tested to stop 9mm 124 GR FMJ at 1,400 fps (426 mps) with minimal back face deformation and has a V-50 of 1525 fps. (Technically can’t be called a Level III-A vest as the mil-spec does not call for testing with .44 Magnums, but the 9mm test is identical to NIJ Level III-A certified vest). The vest will also stop other slower moving fragments, and is also equipped with removable neck, throat, and shoulder and groin protection.
Two Small Arms Protective Inserts (SAPI) may also be added to the front and back of the vest, with each plate designed to stop up to three 7.62×51mm NATO rounds (also known as USA M80 .308 cal) with a muzzle velocity of 2,750 feet per second (838 m/s). The plates are the most technically advanced body armor fielded by the U.S. military, and are constructed of boron carbide ceramics with a Spectra-Dyneema shield backing that breaks down projectiles and halts their momentum before reaching the wearer.
The Interceptor armor also has attachment loops on the front of the vest which accommodate the same type of pockets used in the Modular Lightweight Load-carrying Equipment MOLLE backpack/carry vest system. This allows a soldier to tailor-fit his MOLLE and body armor system to meet mission needs. While not specifically designed for it, the loops can also easily attach All-purpose Lightweight Individual Carrying Equipment ALICE-based equipment, MOLLE’s predecessor, as well as many pieces of civilian-made tactical gear.
The Interceptor Body Armor system weighs a total of 16.4 pounds (7.4 kg), with the vest weighing 8.4 pounds (3.8 kg), and two plates inserted weighing four pounds (1.8 kg) each. This is considerably lighter than the previous body armor fielded in Somalia weighing 25.1 pounds (11.4 kg) that most troops complained was too heavy and unwieldy for combat operations.
Side-SAPIs (SAPI is short for Small Arms Protection Insert) are also available, along with the newer version of the vital plate, the E-SAPI (Enhanced SAPI). These two systems are becoming standard for forward deployed troops in OEF and OIF III. The E-SAPI plates are thicker and heavier than the normal SAPIs, but they offer increased protection from M-80 AP ammunition. The Side-SAPIs protect the side of the torso under the arm. With the Interceptor body armor, E-SAPI plates, S-SAPI plates, and with the neck, throat and groin protectors installed the armor is significantly heavier than 16.4 pounds. A combat load of ammunition and first aid kit are almost universally attached to the webbing on the vest, adding even more mass.
The armor vest of the average US troop in Iraq weighs over 35 pounds, sometimes the vest with all their gear attached can weigh upwards of 45 pounds. There is a constant tradeoff, loss of mobility and comfort and more weight to carry versus increased protection. This is a point of contention in the US armed forces, with some favoring mobility, and others wanting as much protection as is practical.
The plates come in five different sizes and go into the front and back of the vest. The vest also has a quick-release feature in which a quick tug would drop the plates off the vest.
Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.CombatCloth.info/ . CombatCloth.info carries the best selection of combat clothing, gear, and accessories on the market: http://www.CombatCloth.info/categories/adventure-clothing-foot-head-handwear-rain-gear-logo-apparel.html
Bull Pup Guns Configuration
The next generation of small arms coming to the top, a lot are using a bull pup configuration. Since it utilizes a rifle length barrel (about 18-20″) in a carbine sized package (about 28-35″ give or take) no performance or accuracy is lost in compacting the size of the rifle. However, this design is not as perfect as it sounds.
With the exception of the FN F2000, bullpups can only be fired from one shoulder safely because of the ejection next to the user’s head. Also, many are back-heavy and it is more difficult to balance than a standard setup. Also, it is reportedly slower in magazine change time, and it is a lot more awkward.
Overall, there’s a reason that most special ops units from countries whose conventional forces use a bullpup, instead chose a standard rifle and/or carbine. The SAS uses the M4 or the C8, GIGN (though occasionally using the FAMAS) often operates with the SIG 551, and the Australian SASR also utilizes the M4.
Depending on the means of attaching the sight and the optic employed, the bullpup design has the potential of being more mechanically accurate than a conventional weapon the same length because of barrel length and the potential for added barrel rigidity (For example the Walther WA-2000 and Bushmaster M17S).
Additional problems are practical accuracy for most designs because of extended trigger linkages, greater difficulty creating an ergonomic stock, and (without optics) limited sight radius. There is also a practical limit to conventional magazine length without going to an unconventional design parallel to the bore line like the Calico-series, FN P90, or HK G11. This means, in most weapons, the inability to use a high capacity drum for use in the AR/SAW roles.
Belt feed is actually less problematic in bullpup or semi-bullpup designs because it makes it easier to put the ammunition closer to the point of balance (like the M60/M60E3, MG42, and some of the Colt LMG prototypes.)
Modularity seems to suffer on many designs because of a combination of decreased mounting spaces (ergonomic requirements and competition with necessary optics) and balance issues from adding mass forward of the trigger.
Many bullpups have the ability to have their ejection port switched between sides simply and quickly. Examples are the FA MAS-series and the Steyr AUG. A select few eject straight down and are essentially ambidextrous like the FN 2000, FN P90, and the Calico-series of pistol/machine pistols. A few designs, like the L85/L85 series and the Bushmaster M17S’s are exclusively right handed. It’s not terribly reasonable to expect to halt combat to reconfigure your ejection port. This limits even these platforms to shooting from one side or the other. Not a big deal for all, to me, it’s one strike against the bullpup that I don’t have to worry about with a conventional rifle.
The Bullpups offer only one real advantage - compact size - full length barrel. Everything else about them is ‘bog standard’, even though the FN2000 has definitely got potential to be a very workable platform.
Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.CombatCloth.info/ . CombatCloth.info carries the best selection of combat clothing, gear, and accessories on the market: http://www.CombatCloth.info/categories/adventure-clothing-foot-head-handwear-rain-gear-logo-apparel.html
Small Game Hunting Weapons - Rifles
Small game hunting involves pursuing small animals like rabbits, squirrels, and ducks. Since these animals are small, high power weapons are not needed to hunt them. You are better off investing in a weapon that has greater accuracy to be able to target the small game better.
Also, the price of ammunition should be considered, too, since a hunter can take a great number shots in one day.
Under these conditions, a rim-fire rifle would be perfect weapon to use in the small game hunting category. When selecting a rifle, you must consider the following - its fit, sights, weight, its action and caliber. A gun that fits properly will help assure you of getting more accurate shots.
When using a rifle with a stock that is too short, the scope might hit your eyebrow, giving you “scope bite,” while one that is too long could get caught in your armpit if you are wearing a heavy jacket.
A full size stock is better for adult hunters because of its perfect fit. Good balance and stock design is vital for a small game rifle so that it can be handled quickly and readily. When you are small game hunting, most shots are done from a short distance where the animal can possibly detect the hunter, and small animals do not sit still for very long once they sense danger.
It is better to get a light rifle rather than an ultra light one, because ultra light rifles are difficult to keep the balance and make accurate shots. An ideal weight should be about 6 pounds. The rifle’s action can be either repeater or single shot as long as it gives you a more accurate shot. Barrel length also needs to be considered - mostly for balance more than for ballistics. A medium weight barrel of about 20-22 inches in length is ideal.
A perfect small game rifle should have a small action to match its cartridge and a good, solid feel. A rifle with a smooth action is always best with a clean and light trigger pull, which is needed for accuracy. Given the standards of production today, a trigger revamp might be needed for every new rifle.
It is much more important for a small game rifle to be accurate, rather than fancy. There are various different types to choose from: auto-loading, lever, pump, and bolt action repeaters. Among the widely known calibers are the .22 WMR, .17 HMR and .22 LR, from manufacturers such as Anschutz, Ruger, Browning, Kimber, CZ, Winchester, Henry, and Savage, among others.
A quality rim fire rifle deserves to have a quality scope. A fixed power scope of around 4 times or a variable one in the 2 to 7 times range can serve a small game rifle well. Good rim fire scopes are not inexpensive, but are not overly costly either.
A first-rate small game rifle should be:
- as accurate as possible, but not necessarily too powerful. It can be as powerful as .22LR, but no more powerful than .30 Carbine
- light: for carrying ease and fast handling, but not ultra light
- well balanced and able to swing properly
- with a smooth action and a stock that perfectly fits the hunter
- with light and terse trigger pull
- with a scope of good quality and medium power
A superior rifle may be a little too high priced for a amateur hunter but its quality will prove to be rewarding in the long haul.
Learn expert rabbit hunting tips and strategies that will make your next animal hunting expedition much more successful.
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