Conditioning And Feeding Horses
Horses confined in stables are being kept under artificial conditions, and in consequence skill is required to maintain them in good health. Living under natural conditions the horse eats grass; he eats for a very considerable number of hours each day and during the night; he feeds in small quantities at frequent intervals, and he drinks whenever he feels inclined. He has a very small stomach for his size. These facts should be borne in mind when horses are in the stable, and the less the natural conditions are disturbed the better.
Horses intended for hunting during the season should be brought in from grass during July or, at the latest, August. During July the grass begins to lack the nutritive qualities which it had in May and June, and the horse will come up in less soft condition if he has been given a feed of 5 lb. oats daily the last few weeks at grass. This extra condition is due partly to the hard food and partly to the fact that the oats give the horse more energy and that he therefore takes more exercise on his own.
Great care must be taken when the horse is brought in that he does not take cold and start coughing. During the first week in the stable he should not be made to sweat, and the door of the stable should be kept open night and day to give all possible air. Nothing is more likely to start a cough than a stuffy stable.
During the first week in the stable the horse should be given damp bran and hay with little or no oats. The change from grass to dry food is likely to cause indigestion and diarrhea. If at the end of the first week the diarrhea persists, the horse should be given bran mashes for twenty-four hours, and then physicked with an aloes ball or 1 1/2 pints of linseed oil. If the horse comes up from grass in poor condition, worms should be suspected, and he should be treated accordingly.
When the horse has got well over the physic the oat ration may be raised gradually as the exercise is increased. Plenty of walking exercise is essential at this time, and the owner need have no fear of giving too much of it. The horse when out at grass takes slow exercise during the larger part of the twenty-four hours in a day, and is better for plenty of slow exercise when stabled. He probably enjoys it as confinement is unnatural.
The longer that slow work is continued the better for the horse. Fast exercise when in gross condition is liable to affect a horse’s wind, damage his legs and work irreparable harm.
As the horse becomes fit slow trotting exercise should be given and steady trots uphill are excellent for muscling up the quarters. With this exercise about 8-10 lb. of oats a day should be sufficient with 2 lb. of damp bran added and about 14 lb. of hay. The corn should be given in three feeds, a little of the hay given after exercise and the bulk of the hay last thing at night.
If this treatment has been followed your horse should be in first-rate condition when he is called upon for fast work at the end of the cubbing season. He will require about 14 lb. of oats, 2 lb. bran and 12 lb. of hay daily. The quantity of corn should be varied with the work that is being expected from him, his size and his appetite. The food should be given in at least three feeds a day and may with great advantage be divided into four meals.
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Vestibular Disease in Dogs and Cats
The vestibular system controls balance and prevents an animal from falling over. It does this by holding and constantly adjusting the position of the eyes, head and body in relation to gravity. When there is disease affecting this system, though it is seldom life threatening, the symptoms caused can be particularly distressing for a pet owner. Animals may tilt their head to one side, circle either clockwise or anticlockwise, fall over repeatedly, roll to one side, be generally wobbly and display abnormal pupil movement in their eyes. Here we look at the physiology of the vestibular system in dogs and cats, what can go wrong and how a good veterinarian will diagnose and treat it.
What exactly is the vestibular system?
The vestibular system is a sensory system consisting of a receptor organ within the inner ear, the vestibular nerve itself, and a balance control centre at the back of the brain. The receptor organ in the inner ear detects the position and movement of the head in space, both when the animal is resting or moving. Information on the position of the head is converted into electrical signals, which are transmitted via the vestibular nerve to the brain. The balance control centre in the brain then processed this information, and sends motor signals to the muscles controlling the positions of the eyes and limbs according to the movement of the head.
What is vestibular syndrome?
Vestibular syndrome is a general term describing disease of the vestibular system. The term alone does not provide any information on which part of the vestibular system is affected, and what the cause is.
What are the signs to look out for?
Animals with vestibular disease may display any or all of the following signs:
1. Head tilt
This is rotation of the head so that one ear is lower than the other. It occurs due to loss of antigravity muscle tone on one side of the neck.
2. Circling
Circling often occurs with vestibular disease, but can also occur with forebrain tumors. Generally, tight circles mean vestibular disease while wide circles mean a brain tumor.
3. Nystagmus (wandering pupils)
This means involuntary rhythmic movement of the eyeballs. The pupils tend to drift to one side (the slow phase) and then jerk back to the middle (the fast phase). Usually the slow phase is toward the diseased side.
4. Strabismus (squint)
This means abnormal position of the eyeballs, rather like the condition commonly known as a squint.
5. Ataxia (wobbliness)
This means walking in an uncoordinated fashion, and is seen with a wide range of diseases other than vestibular disease, such as those affecting the brain, spinal cord or peripheral nerves. Animals can adopt a broad based stance, exhibit swaying of the head, and leaning, falling and rolling to one side.
Peripheral vs Central Vestibular Disease
Vestibular disease is categorized as either peripheral or central, according to where in the system the disease originates from. Peripheral vestibular disease is where the disease is located in either the receptor organs in the inner ear or the vestibular nerve. Central vestibular disease is where the disease is located in the balance control centre in the brain (to be precise, either in the brainstem vestibular nuclei or in the cerebellum).
The first task for the veterinarian is to identify whether he or she is dealing with peripheral or central vestibular disease. This is done by looking carefully for all of the symptoms described above, and further characterizing them by direction and nature. It is beyond the remit of this article to go into the exact way of differentiating them clinically, and though it can usually be achieved by a competent vet by examination alone, sometimes further tests are necessary to do so.
Causes of peripheral vestibular syndrome
1. Middle or inner ear disease (infection or tumor)
2. Nasopharyngeal polyps
3. Head trauma
4. Drug toxicity (e.g. gentamycin)
5. Underactive thyroid gland
6. Congenital (present at birth)
7. Idiopathic (cause unidentifiable)
Causes of central vestibular syndrome
1. Brain hemorrhage or infarct
2. Infectious encephalitis (bacterial, viral or fungal)
3. Meningoencephalitis
4. Head trauma
5. Drug toxicity (e.g. metronidazole)
6. Brain cyst
7. Brain tumor (primary or metastatic)
8. Thiamine deficiency
9. Neurodegenerative disease
Making a diagnosis
First, the veterinarian must distinguish between peripheral and central disease based on clinical signs. If there is doubt, diagnostics for both should be done. If the veterinarian suspects central disease, he or she may choose to rule out peripheral disease with various tests first because the tests for central disease are expensive (e.g. MRI or CT scan).
The following procedure is what is most commonly done when looking for causes of peripheral vestibular disease. If drug toxicity has been ruled out (no metronidazole, aminoglycoside antibiotics or topical chlorhexidine recently) then the external ears are examined using an otoscope (illuminated and magnified inspection device with a rigid conical end which is inserted into the ear canal). Ear infections, tumors and polyps may be detected this way. Middle ear disease is suspected if the ear drum appears to be ruptured, bulging, cloudy or red in color. Thyroid levels are usually measured by a blood test at this stage to rule out hypothyroidism.
The next step of the investigation is taking xrays of the skull. Several views are required but the most important one is that which shows the tympanic bullae in the middle ears most clearly. This requires general anesthesia to allow correct positioning.
If the tests at this stage have all come back normal, many cases will be given a presumptive diagnosis of idiopathic vestibular syndrome. This is usually because a) it is by far the most likely diagnosis, and b) further specialized tests are costly. If however further tests are to be carried out, MRI or CT scanning, electromyography and nerve conduction studies are a possibility in some referral centers.
Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the experts on recently launched Pet Q&A service http://www.whydoesmypet.com.
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Iguana Temperatures In The Habitat
Iguanas are very delicate in the way that the iguana temperature in the habitat is of the utmost importance. This is due to the fact that in the wild, iguanas get their vitamins and nutrients from basking in the hot sun and although it looks like they are being lazy and lethargic, they are actually gathering life-sustaining nutrients.
It is also true that an iguana can actually see the UV rays that are emitted from the sun, which is something that humans cannot do to demonstrate how imperative sunlight and heat are to the iguana. In order to understand how to properly regulate iguana temperature in the habitat, lets examine the essential needs of the iguana in captivity.
Proper Heat & Light For Captive Iguanas
There are a number of products available to help regulate the iguana temperature rates inside of the habitat but first, lets outline a few of the misconceptions that are common among new iguana owners.
The fish tank lights that are typically a part of the package comes with a fluorescent UVB light that fixes to the top of the tank is far from the adequate lighting for an iguana. These are very weak and do not give the iguana temperature much difference as they are basically ‘cool’ lights. The type of UVB light that an iguana requires to maintain proper iguana temperature is typically an incandescent light that is round in structure for heat as well as the UVB fluorescent light that will supply adequate lighting for the iguana.
The fish tank lights are not sufficient in creating the kind of atmosphere that an iguana is comfortable in or can thrive in so be sure that you have proper lighting. Again, the iguana temperature is a direct correlation with the health of the iguana and is incredibly important to the well being of the iguana. It should also be said that the fluorescent UVB light should be placed at least 8-14 inches from the area that the iguana spends most of its time in.
Many first time iguana owners also believe that the entire habitat needs to be the same temperature and this is a complete falsehood as iguana temperature varies just as it would in the wild. The iguana is not only in need of a hot spot to gather UV rays that are imitated by the heating lamps; it is also in need of a cool area.
The cool area as well as the nighttime iguana temperature should be around 74-85 degrees Fahrenheit while the basking area for the iguana should always be a balmy 90-94 degrees Fahrenheit.
If you want to learn more about iguanas please visit our site which is free to the public. You’ll find the best tips on everything to do with iguanas - http://www.iguanainstitute.com/iguanas/
Killing Animals and Attacking Children
Dogs have not traveled far along the evolutionary road since the time they hunted and killed for food. In fact, some breeds are still selectively bred for their tendency to chase or stalk prey and at least capture, if not kill and/or eat them.
Notable among these are the Terriers, Dachshunds, sighthounds and various hunting breeds. It is no wonder then, that pet dogs occasionally succumb to their ancestral tendency, even without special training.
Dogs are often inadvertently trained to kill. For example, many dog owners have urged their pets (sometimes playfully) to chase cats, squirrels and stray dogs, and are often horrified when their dogs bring home the neighbor’s Teacup Poodle as a trophy of the chase.
Sometimes other animals, usually cats, have “trained” dogs to become killers. These animals do this unknowingly by sitting on fences, rooftops, in trees or beyond fences, tantalizing the dog from a safe vantage point.
After enough of this teasing, the dog becomes sufficiently frustrated to attack an animal when the opportunity presents itself.
Dogs that kill other animals are usually, but not necessarily, of the excitable type and react aggressively or dominantly to other species or smaller dogs.
The killing of smaller dogs or cats by larger dogs is usually the case in urban areas. However, when dog packs operate as hunting groups, much larger animals become the prey, sometimes even people.
Most dogs that have killed people, either by themselves or in packs, select children as their prey. Child killings (especially those committed by lone dogs) have usually occurred at or within the dog’s “territory,” or have involved a child who screamed shrilly when first approached or knocked down.
A small percentage of dogs appears to be stimulated in the most primitive way by the screaming of any animal: their reaction is to kill that animal. Wild canines have killed members of their own pack that cry out after they have become trapped or are injured.
Dogs that kill other animals should be differentiated from those with a fighting problem. Most dog fights end before either of the combatants is seriously injured.
These episodes rarely result in the death of either dog. Predatory attacks aimed at killing the prey animal are deliberate, with the fangs aimed at the base of the prey’s neck just above the shoulders. If the prey is on its back, the soft flesh of the throat or belly is attacked.
A predatory attack also usually includes violent shaking of the victim. Rarely does a domestic dog actually eat its kill, though some that prey on chickens and other fowl tend to do so more often that cat or dog killers.
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The Spiny Tailed Iguana
There is relatively little known about the mysterious spiny tailed green iguana and only a handful of subspecies. They are generally located in the Yucatan Peninsula through to Panama however their presence is largely located in Mexico.
The intriguing iguana that thrives on the Atlantic coast there can typically grow up to 24-34 inches in length and are often mistaken for an alligator when they are spotted in Florida. They love to lay and soak up the sun and are often found around heat retaining objects such as stones and brick walls.
Specific Traits
The most noticeable difference between this iguana and its close relative the green iguana is that the spiny tail is very aggressive and usually doesn’t do well in captivity. They rarely ever become tame and continue to act aggressive towards the owners and other people as well.
It is hostile and angry in a way and is best left to thrive in its natural environment as this just doesn’t make a good pet as the owner is always feeling like an inferior pet owner and the common spiny tail is in distress because of its captivity.
It has a few distinct traits such as the tail being ringed with very specialized spiny scales that run the length of the tail. Most of the iguana relatives have a dorsal crest that are very short generally however the spiny tailed iguana has a very long dorsal crest.
Captivity
If you already own one of them and you have to house it, there are a few considerations to know before setting up its home. In general this iguana prefers a woody habitat and it is imperative to remember that the spiny tailed iguana thrives on digging and you should provide him with the material to suit it. Pine and aspen shaving and even some bark litters that you can buy for reptiles are not suitable for this type of iguana so be sure to steer clear of those.
Alfalfa is a wonderful product to use to provide your iguana with digging material. Always make certain that your spiny tailed iguana has a fresh bowl of water at all times and it is sometimes suggested for this specific type of iguana that you allow ice cubes to melt over an enclosure into the water bowl.
So if you are thinking about getting yourself one of these amazing creatures, make sure you take into account all the variables discussed above.
If you want to learn more about Iguana’s please visit our site which is free to the public. You’ll find the best tips on everything to do with Iguana’s - http://www.iguanainstitute.com/iguana/
Iguana Taming & Training
If you are considering getting an iguana for a pet there is a very large bit of literature and information that you should carefully study before deciding if an iguana is the right pet for you. Iguana taming is but one of the relatively small issues in the way of owning and caring for iguanas, as they are a high maintenance pet to keep and can life for quite some time.
There are also other considerations when deciding on an iguana and that includes iguana taming as many iguanas display high levels of aggression in captivity. With this bit of information you will be able to form a better understanding of what the tasks are involved with having this pet and learning the fine points of iguana taming.
Understanding Iguana Taming
The very first thing that is imperative for you to realize is that iguanas are a reptile and are very wild by nature. These creatures have only just begun in recent decades to be an in-home pet and often iguana taming is very difficult for this reason.
When you decide to own an iguana and bring it home it is going to show you aggression because it is scared and you may be inadvertently creating a worse situation by not understanding what the iguana perceives as a threat. These are necessary things to learn about your iguana because iguana taming can be tricky and the iguana will never get over his aggression if you do not learn how to properly act and approach the iguana.
Iguana taming can be a very long process because the reptile isn’t as easily warmed up to as other mammal like pets that you may have had in the past. The iguana will display high levels of aggression if you aren’t handling him properly and this seems to be the number one reason for iguana aggression is either due to the fact that the iguana is not handled properly or when iguana taming, you don’t spend enough time with the pet on a daily basis.
When you are researching how to properly perform iguana taming be sure that you pay particular attention to how to approach your iguana also because trying to grab your iguana from the back will instinctively trigger defense mechanisms within the iguana and he will react negatively.
Another very important issue in iguana taming is that you never grab your iguana by its tail because it will break right off in your hand. An iguana doesn’t have many defense mechanisms and the tail breaking off, is one of the defenses they have to protect themselves from predators in the wild.
If you want to learn more about Iguana’s please visit our site which is free to the public. You’ll find the best tips on everything to do with Iguana’s - http://www.iguanainstitute.com/iguanas
Using Reward Based Dog Training
If there is one thing all dogs respond to no matter what they are doing or how well trained they are its receiving a treat of some sort. This reward based dog training also seems to be a constant theme for the majority of dog trainers everywhere. A reward does not necessarily have to be a food treat either. The type of training may also dictate the type of rewards given.
For instance there are some forms of training, such as police or guard dog training, that commonly use playtime after the training session to reinforce what was taught. For the majority of people who are more interested in just basic obedience training small treats work best as a reward when the dog is responding positively to the training. Of course the oldest form of rewards training involves lots of spoken praise and petting to let the dog know they are doing what they are supposed to.
One thing that all good dog trainers know and understand is the negative impact yelling and losing ones temper can do during dog training. This type of behavior on the part of the owner generally will lead to less then desirable results. Maintaining control with a firm, yet calm demeanor will have any dog learning and responding much quicker then using any heavy handed method.
Dogs have been a part of the human world for thousands of years. In that time they have evolved simply to please those who take care of them. Once they know that what they are doing pleases their owner they will continue to exhibit that good behavior. A dog will respond positively to positive reinforcement and the challenge of obedience training is getting the dog to understand what you want him to do. By having him do the same thing repeatedly and rewarding him each time for a job well done you create an understanding and bond that is hard to break.
Reward based dog training should be fun for the dog and his owner. By creating a positive atmosphere for each and every training session your dog will look forward to doing his best to please you. If you create a negative environment with harsh treatment your dog will be less then happy to attempt to learn anything. His fear of being punished will far outweigh his desire to please you.
Consistency in training and the rewards used will create a well behaved, obedient dog that will be a great companion and friend no matter where you go.
To learn more about reward based dog training and other training methods please visit the website Worfdog.com at http://www.worfdog.com/Dog-Training/Dog-Training-Methods.html
Food Allergies in Dogs
Allergies in dogs seem to have become more and more common over the years. Whether this is just because we are getting better at diagnosing them is debatable, but certainly the pet food manufacturers have had an important role to play in dealing with this phenomenon. Although a food allergy is thought to be non curable, the good news is that with proper diagnosis and management it can be well controlled in virtually 100% of cases.
What is a food allergy?
A more appropriate term for a food allergy is an adverse food reaction. It is where ingestion of a certain ingredient in the diet causes itchiness anywhere on the body and recurring skin or ear infections with Malassezia yeast and bacteria. Food allergies can also cause digestive tract signs too, such as fecal mucus, blood in the stools and increased frequency of defecation. They have also been associated with increased flatulence.
The root cause of these adverse food reactions is unknown, but research points towards an increase in permeability of the gut wall, or a failure of the gut associated immune system. Though it has never been proven that certain breeds are affected worse than others, some breeds do seem to be over represented. The age of onset can range from a few months to 12 years old.
What are the ingredients that dogs are most commonly allergic to?
There are 7 ingredients that are frequently responsible for adverse food reactions:
1. Beef
2. Milk
3. Eggs
4. Chicken
5. Soy
6. Wheat
7. Corn
Statistically, beef and soy are the biggest offenders. Many dogs will be allergic to more than one of these ingredients, and may also be allergic to things in their environment, such as pollen, certain grasses or fleas.
How can a food allergy be diagnosed?
If a dog has had general itchiness that does not lessen in the winter months, recurrent skin and ear infections or intermittent soft stools, it is worth investigating for a food allergy.
There are 3 recognised diagnostic methods:
1. A blood test to measure antibodies to various ingredients.
2. An intradermal skin test where allergens are injected at various points on the skin and the reaction is measured.
3. An elimination diet.
The intradermal skin test is thought to be very inaccurate, and the jury is still out on the blood test. The elimination diet is seen as the most reliable, and the cheapest of the three options. It does however require a motivated and disciplined owner in order to achieve meaningful results.
Elimination Diet
There are three basic elimination diet choices:
1. Home cooked food
This is not generally recommended as it is time consuming for the owner and can also provide an unnatural and nutritionally unbalanced diet. However, if the dog is incredibly fussy and the owner cannot bear to force it to eat a commercial diet, the best ingredients are one of either lamb, fish, duck or turkey, plus one of either rice or potatoes. The two ingredients selected (the former high in protein, the latter a carbohydrate source) should be ones that the dog has preferably never eaten before.
2. A commercial, limited antigen diet
If one of these diets is to be recommended, suitable ingredients would be venison, rabbit or oatmeal. Remember, we are looking for ingredients that your dog has never eaten before, so cannot possibly already be allergic to.
3. A commercial, hydrolysed protein hypoallergenic diet
These contain proteins that have been broken down to the extent that they are no longer capable of causing an allergic reaction. They are often referred to as prescription diets because they are usually purchased via a veterinarian, although they can be obtained over the counter without a prescription. They are significantly more expensive than limited antigen diets, so it is wiser to try a limited antigen diet first as if the elimination diet is successful, the dog will remain on that food for life.
The elimination diet must be given for a minimum of 6 weeks, and possibly up to 10, in order to observe the maximum response. Owners must not give their dog ANYTHING else during the trial period, meaning no titbits, treats or vitamin supplements. For example, many owners do not realize that rawhide chews are made from cow derivatives and that with beef being the most common culprit in allergies, these chews could be the root of the problem. During the trial period, nothing must enter the dogs mouth apart from the chosen diet and water.
If the symptoms in question are intense itchiness, many vets will prescribe antihistamines or steroids during the first few weeks of the trial in order to make the dog more comfortable. If the dog gets better as the trial goes on, and the initial drugs to provide temporary comfort have worn off, then it is suggestive of a food allergy. If this occurs, the dog is then challenged with its former diet to see if the symptoms return and therefore confirm the diagnosis. It usually takes between 3 and 7 days for the symptoms to return after initiating the challenge.
If there is a partial improvement in the dogs condition, it is likely that the dog indeed has a food allergy but also has other allergies at the same time. The dog will then be kept on the elimination diet while other potential allergies are investigated, such as flea bite sensitivity and atopy. These can be checked for via intradermal testing or blood tests.
If a food allergy is confirmed, the owner can either continue to feed the same food given during the elimination trial indefinitely, or can persevere with dietary trials by introducing the 7 most common allergic ingredients (see above) one by one until it is ascertained exactly what the dog is allergic to.
Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the experts on recently launched Pet Q&A service http://www.whydoesmypet.com.
Visit them today, you will be impressed by the quality of their experts and the speed with which your question is answered!
All You Would Ever Want To Know About Bears
Bears can be found throughout the world. They are generally large animals, and are characterized by a plantigrade walk (on their heels, like humans), a large body, short legs, a stub of a tail, small, round ears, and forward facing eyes.
All bears are classified as carnivores, with each species having a variable degree of herbivorous tendency. The panda, for example, is almost exclusively a plant eater. The polar bear is almost entirely a carnivore.
The black bear has managed to be quite prolific and successful as bears go. The eighteen known subspecies can be found throughout the United States and Canada. Estimates of the number of black bears in North America vary, with 750,000 being the most often suggested. In the state of Pennsylvania there are believed to be more than 7000 of the animals scattered across the state.
Despite their name, black bears can actually appear in a variety of colors. There are brown black bears, white black bears, and even the blue glacier bear.
Expert estimates of the weights of the bears also seem to vary widely. Conservative measurements put the average weight of the animals is around 300 pounds. However, the degree of sexual dimorphism exhibited by the species makes accurate accounts difficult. The largest black bear recorded was a male shot in Wisconsin in 1885. The bear was 802 pounds, far heavier than would be expected.
They have a wide an varied diet. They can and will eat nearly anything. Typical of bears, they are fond of honey, and are responsible for thousands of dollars worth of damage to aphiaries each year.
The black bear has claws which are shorter and more curved than those of the grizzly bear. This allows it to have a great agility in climbing trees. Often, a sow will encourage her cubs to tree themselves while there is danger. Black bears have a characteristic way of climbing and descending trees. They mostly use their front claws for climbing and keeping a hold.
The Brown Bear has captured the human consciousness like nearly no other animal can. It presents an image so like ourselves that we often get caught up in the “cuteness” and forget that it is a wild animal that we are dealing with. The brown bear is often seen as the cuddly buffoon of animation, and the “Teddy” bear of children and collectors alike. In reality, the brown bear is a complex and fascinating animal deserving of great respect.
The brown bear distinguishes itself from the other ursines by virtue of its shoulder hump, which is caused by muscles which are used for digging. The color of the animal varies from a light creamy color through to black. It has a dished facial profile and very long claws on the front paws. In addition, has a wider distribution than any of the other bears, and can be found throuhout the world.
The animal has been found in such diverse places as Europe, Japan, North Asia, the western Canadian provinces, and the states of Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, and Alaska. This diversity does not limit itself to purely geographical happenings, as the bear is also found in a great number of different habitats as well. Brown bears can be found on the plains, in the forests, the tundra, and in subalpine mountain areas.
At one time, the brown bear could be found throughout the North American continent. However, excessive hunting and destruction of the animal’s habitat have all but wiped out this majestic creature.
This animal’s weight varies widely throughout the course of the year. Some can even double their weigh between emerging from their dens in the Spring and returning in the Fall.
The males can weigh anywhere from 300 to 860 pounds, with the females coming in somewhere between 205 and 455 pounds. The average size of these bears is difficult to pinpoint, because it seems to depend greatly on the food sources available.
The island grizzlies of Alaska (Kodiak and Admiralty) are considered the largest land carnivores in the world, and live on a diet of fish and other rich food. The inland animals are smaller by some 30%.
Of the browns, people tend to be more familiar with the grizzly bear. This animal is well known for it’s agressive nature, and it is for this reason that many folks believe it gets its name. Not so! The name “grizzly” comes from the “grizzling” of its fur, which gives it a lighter color at the tips of hairs.
Brown bears reach sexual maturity somewhere between their 4 1/2 to 7th years. Females and males mature at approximately the same time, but males often do not become successful breeders until they are 8-10 years old due to competition with older, stronger males.
Mating between browns takes place from early May to mid-July Implantation of the egg in the uterus, however, does not occur until sometime in Oct.-Nov. 1-4 cubs are born during winter hibernation of the female, with 2 being most common, sometime between January and March.
The cubs will stay with the sow up to 2 1/2 years, meaning that the female may only breed about once every 3 years or so. Given that bears generally live only until they are 20-25 years of age, this does not give very many opportunities to reproduce.
Like most other bears, the brown bears are longers; with the notable exception of females with cubs. During the mating season, males and females may pair up and mate frequently for up to two weeks.
The females require the stimulation of frequent mating before they will ovulate. While fertile, she may mate with several males, leading to cubs in a litter which may not all have the same father. This is one of the factors that makes research into bears more difficult, since paternity is often hard to determine.
The home ranges of bears often overlap. The ranges of males will often intersect those of several females. Bears will not generally attack other bears which wander in to their territories.
They will even congregate peacefully in places where food is plentiful such as garbage dumps and salmon streams. In such places, the big, dominant males will usually get the choice fishing areas.
Brown bears are technically carnivores, but in practice most of their diet consists of plant matter such as sedges, grasses, bulbs, seeds, berries, and roots. They will also eat insects, fish, and small mammals. Some of these bears have even developed predatory practices on large animals, including moose, caribou, and elk.
Keith Londrie II is the and publisher of http://bears.about-animals.info A website that specializes in providing information on bears that you can research on the internet. Please Visit http://bears.about-animals.info now!
Tropical Fish - A Beginners Guide
Owning tropical fish can provide you with immense enjoyment and can become a wonderful hobby that not only you but other will benefit from also.
Although most tropical fish can be relatively easy to care for it is important to educate yourself before buying tropical fish because without proper understanding of their needs your new hobby could become extremely expensive.
You will need to know and research how to set up an aquarium, understand the size you will need for the amount of fish you are hoping to keep. Also be aware of the sizes your fish will grow to as most tropical fish are not purchased at adult size.
By reading books and looking on the internet you will be able to find out what temperature the water in your aquarium needs to be and will know how to test the ph levels, water hardness and for any toxins.
Be aware of diseases, one of the most common tropical fish diseases is white spot, this is caused by a parasite called ‘ick’ or ‘ich’ you will know if this has affected you tropical fish as you will notice white spots on the fishes scales. White spot is a very irritating disease for tropical fish, if you notice your fish rubbing themselves against objects or plants this could be a sign of infection.
It is important to treat white spot immediately. It can kill tropical fish within a few days and will be spread to others in the tank. If one of your fish has been affected you will need to treat the entire tank.
It is important to clean your fish tank and all the stones and plants that are in it, you will need to change the water checking the ph levels as you do so.
To prevent white spot from affecting your fish you should always quarantine new fish for approximately 2 days. Maintain a high water quality and always provide your fish with a balanced diet.
You should never over feed your tropical fish, this can pollute the water and also harm you fish. Provide enough food for them to survive and grow healthily. You may find that different fish will eat different food so it is worth researching this aspect. Some fish are scavengers and are happy to feed off scraps and debris from the tank others will need a specific type of food.
If you are beginner it may be tempting to rush out and buy the best tank you can see and add all the colourful fish you can find however, without being armed with the right information and the correct knowledge about owning tropical fish your efforts could result in disaster.
Your local pet shop owner or aquarium shops will be happy to talk to you about any information or concerns you have about setting up and keeping an aquarium. By knowing all the facts you will be able to purchase an aquarium and tropical fish that will be an enjoyment and pleasure to keep.
Allen Jesson writes for several sites including http://www.pets-on.net
http://www.theaquariumsite.com
http://www.saltwaterfreshwateraquarium.com
