Choosing the Right Materials When Beginning Quilting
To begin with, I want to say something as trite as it is important and that is, “Use the very best materials that you can afford for any and all handwork.” Extravagance is never smart, but good quilt materials are not expensive. It’s the sleazy ones, unreliable dyes and starched cloth that prove expensive in the end.
Wash goods is gauged by the number of threads per square inch, “68-72″ is a fair grade of percale, “80 square” is excellent, the weight we usually use and some of the very fine imported ginghams run to “120 square.”
A firm weave is imperative where one is cutting small triangles and diamonds where part of each block must be bias. Imagine trying to fit bias sides of rayon crepe or voile onto squares and you can see how totally unfitted such scraps are for quilt making. Coarse linens, crash weight cretonne and pongee unless deeply seamed ravel out too easily to be suitable. Romper cloth and any others that border onto ticking texture are too close weave and heavy to quilt well. Cheap ginghams will shrink enough to pucker in a quilt top. So to the firm weave must be added soft texture. “Beauty shine” is a permanent luster satin of finest quality, which we recommend for excellent results. The finest materials certainly do make the loveliest quilts.
The dye problem is mastered with a reasonable amount of care as “vat dyes” are usual in even very inexpensive goods. “Commercially fast” the dealer will say, which means with any reasonable care they will not run. Very few manufacturers will absolutely guarantee color, and where they do replace, they have told us it was often a case of sub-standard black thread which had spotted with washing. Quilts are naturally difficult things to launder. A wisp of silk undies may be in, out, and dry in next to no time, but a quilt with cotton filler, top and lining all stitched plumply together goes in for no such speedy procedure. When it gets wet it stays that way long enough to try colors to their limits. We have had quilt colors, yellows and reds “bleed” into the white and in subsequent tubbings clear again to white. For the “priceless” quilts we suggest the French dry-cleaning establishments.
There is a long list of woven cloths advertised from 1715 on, “Demities,” “Fustians,” “Muslings,” “Cambricks,” different sorts of “Duck,” “Lawn,” “Searsucker,” “Pealong” the ancestor of longcloth and Nankeen who begat “Blue Denim”! All of these and many more found their way into patchwork but the dearest and most suitable of all was calico. An author, who treats this history in full, writes that “the mainstay of the patch worker was from 1700 to 1775 callicoe, from 1775 to 1825 calicoe, and from 1825 to 1875 calico!”
The great majority of quilts are usually made of wash cotton materials, although silks are sometimes used in such patterns as Log Cabin, Grandmother’s Fan, or the Friendship Ring, where one’s friends are called upon to help furnish beautiful bits to make the patterns as variegated as possible. Woolens, even good parts of worn garments are excellent for the heavy type of coverlet, and such designs as Steps to the Altar, or Grandmother’s Cross are suitable. Woolens are so apt to be dull, “practical” colors, that it is imperative to have some certain unit of red, bright green, orange or such in each block.
While cotton broadcloth, percales, or fine gingham, the calico prints and such, are used with muslin for wash quilts, many women maintain that soft satin really makes the most gorgeous quilt of all. When the time comes to quilt you will know why we stress soft materials and why lustrous satin which catches light on every little silk-like puff between quilting designs is so beloved.
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Ideas On What To Use And How To Arrange Your Bouquet
There is a really good book out called ‘Grow your own cut flowers’ by Sarah Raven published by BBC Worldwide which could prove helpful. (Amazon are brilliant at getting books from overseas) She suggests flowers such as sweet peas, scabious and snapdragons, dahlias and zinnias but you will need to concentrate on annuals and make sure no biennials creep in as they will not flower in time.
The lovely sweetpea colours, with the lilac-blue of the scabious and the lipstick pink of the zinnias would look fantastic, you could even pop a few florist bought freesias and roses in just for good measure. But if can get hold of this book, it will be of help I’m sure.
You may consider making a tied wedding bouquet, where the flowers are all kept on their natural stems and not wired. These are very popular at the moment and the beauty of these are they can be transported in a small pot of water and just taken out before the ceremony (make sure you take something to wipe the stems with)If you do decide to wire the stems, then make sure you spray them well with water and then cover them in a tent of cellophane and keep somewhere cool.
You will have to condition the flowers you cut from your garden very well. The night before, when it has cooled down and then stand in cold water overnight before using. There are many different methods of conditioning flowers depending on whether they are soft stemmed, woody, hollow etc. so you may be advised to get a book from the library, as the success of your bouquet will be down to the conditioning of the flowers and foliages used. Try out certain flowers the week before to see how long they last once cut and conditioned. It’s best to know this before the big day.
Most florists work from a design book that is generally provided by the relay organisation they belong to e.g Interflora, Teleflower etc. This ensures that the customer knows exactly what she/he has ordered and by rights the florist should work from that design book/manual and send out an exact replica. Relay organisations regularily test their members by sending them false orders and checking them for design, flower quality and value.
There are so many different styles nowadays and they are usually divided into; gift flowers (Bouquets, Hand tied bouquets, baskets, posies, planted baskets, Pot-et-fleur) function/wedding flowers; (pedestals, altar displays, garlands, pew ends, table centres, long low displays, candle displays) Then the bridal flowers; (Bride’s bouquet, Bridesmaid’s Posies, Baskets, garlands, hoops, corsages, buttonholes) Flowers for new born babies; (Cradles, ceramic containers usually in the shapes of prams and trains etc, filled with flowers) Then, sadly funeral flowers; (Sprays, sheaves, massed heart, cushion, pillow, crosses, open wreath, based wreath.)
I have probably omitted some but as you can see there are a very wide range of items that a florist should be able to produce for his/her client.Have you tried searching for Interflora on the web, they are bound to have plenty of pictures and ideas to help bulk out your project. Maybe a single white rose bud (thorns removed) with a small blue or pink ribbon tied right up under the rose head.
This always looks special. You could do the same with a gerbera or a carnation. Keep them in water and hand out just as the party finishes. Or a little pot of pansies with tissue paper wrapped around the pot. These will last a lot longer and can be planted in the garden afterwards.
Fresh tulips are wonderful in a wedding bouquet. If you have them assembled as a hand tied,you can place the stems in water until you need to use them (make sure you dry the ends well)and they should be alright for a few hours out of water. Then you could have a small vase ready, maybe on the cake table, that you can place the tulips for the rest of the day. This will only really work with a posy style hand tied and if the flowers are quite tightly packed and firmly tied, they should behave themselves.
I know that in Holland (where alot of our flowers come from in the U.K.) they do seem to have extended the season for lilac, especially the white variety so maybe a florist where you are could make some enquiries. I have been searching for alternatives for you and can suggest the following; White and lilac mop headed hydrangeas (will give you a lovely cluster)
Delphiniums come in some lovely shades of lilac and blue and also white and used in little sprays could look a little like lilac. I have in a vase at home some wonderful artificial stems of lilac which have been admired by so many people. Maybe combined with some fresh foliage and maybe another flower variety, this could be an alternative… so have a look round and ask about for silk lilac, but make sure it’s really good. How far you insert the stems will depend on the size of the bouquet holders you choose to use. You should leave the stems as long as possible without making them poke through the other side. One inch is the very shortest.
I would highly recommend that you try to get your hands on some FloraLock. This is an adhesive that comes with a nozzle that you spray directly onto the floral foam and around the stems after the arrangements are finished. But be sure you’re in love with the arrangement before you glue! You cannot make any changes to the arrangement once FloraLock has dried. Also, you don’t need much of it. Use it sparingly until you get the hang of it, or you’ll have it dripping down the handle of the bouquet holder. I don’t know if FloraLock is available at any craft stores – a florist may need to order it for you.
Victor Epand is an expert consultant for http://www.SendFlowers4.info/ . SendFlowers4.info is a great place to shop for flowers, gift baskets, and plants when you are looking for a special gift. Start here to search by “Special Occasion”: http://www.SendFlowers4.info/category/occasions.html
Card Making Ideas – Rubber Stamps
If you are new to card making and looking for card making ideas, rubber stamps are a perfect addition to your craft box. Rubber stamps can be used in a variety of ways so they are well worth investing in.
When you begin crafting or card making it is important that you do not rush out and buy everything you see, you will save a huge amount of money if you purchase a few items, some stamps and embossing powders until you discover some card making ideas or find what your special interest is whether it be animal stamps or flowers or what ever interests you.
Never by cheap stamps for your card making ideas, although some stamps are quite expensive they will produce a much better print and have a crisper look if they have been properly made.
Rubber stamps range in price, usually the larger or more detailed the more expensive it will be, I always consider how many times I can use a stamp for my card making ideas before I purchase one. Some of the larger stamps can also be repeatedly stamped and used for decoupage, which will create a completely different type of card.
If you do decide to use a rubber stamp for decoupage never cut into the embossed lines as this may cause the embossing powder to flake off and look unattractive.
I find the stamps that are mounted on a clear block are great for beginners as you can see exactly where you are stamping leaving less room for error.
The biggest tip I can give when using rubber stamps that you will emboss is to lightly brush the area of card you are going to stamp on with talc this will stop the embossing powder sticking to other parts of the card as well as the ink.
Always lay you stamp flat and take the inkpad to it rather than pushing the stamp into the inkpad, this will ensure the entire design on the stamp is evenly covered in the ink.
Remember once you have used the stamp it is important to clean the stamp and remove the entire ink residue. Depending on the type of in you have used for your card making ideas it may not be necessary to use expensive ink removers, I find an acid free baby wipe works just as well as some of the chemical solutions you can buy from craft shops.
Always store your inkpads level and upside down this will prevent uneven ink distribution and keep the ink on the top of the pad ready for its next use.
Rubber-stamping can be used for all your card making ideas and also for scrap booking, however it is important that you use ink that is acid free and fade resistant to keep your project looking bright and effective.
Vicki Churchill writes for a site that specializes in card making ideas http://www.vickiscardmakingideas.com providing you with excellent tips and ideas for rubber stamping and many other tricks and techniques.
How To Use Vellum For Your Card Making Ideas
One of my favourite types of craft paper to use for my card making ideas is vellum paper, there is so much you can do with it to create stunning effects and designs.
Vellum was initially a translucent type of paper made from calfskin that had been soaked and then dried at a normal temperature under some sort of tension.
Vellum is a parchment paper that got its name from the French word velin which stands for calfskin, it is smooth and durable and can be used in so many ways for card making ideas.
Vellum paper can come in a variety of colours or prints and can vary in weight and thickness.
Using vellum for your card making ideas is a fun way to embellish and add definition to your cards, it does not always have to be a sheet of plain color as vellum can come in many prints including flowers, swirls and even pictures.
You can use vellum to mat and layer and even to cover the whole front of a card however because it is slightly see though you will need to be careful when attaching it to your card making ideas as many adhesives will show through.
There are some vellum adhesives available however these can sometimes be expensive and I find that even thought they are supposed to be invisible you can still see the tape, maybe its just because I know its there and I am looking for it.
If possible try to attach vellum to your card making ideas by means other than adhesives, I use brads where possible so that the vellum is secured and no glue is needed.
You can also print on vellum which is a really effective way of having a message on your cards or a poem. Because vellum is so smooth you will need to be very careful when printing on vellum as it may smudge. I would wait at least a few hours before attaching the printed vellum to one of you card making ideas.
You can also try to dry the ink with a heat gun but use the lowest setting and be very careful as this can burn the vellum.
Vellum can also be used to punch out ghost like shapes, I find punching out flower shapes and building them up on the front of a card gives it a stunning look.
If using vellum quotes you can simply cut the wording out however I find if you rip around the vellum words it looks a lot nicer.
Whether you are using quotes, printed patterned or plain vellum you will find that there is so much you can do with it you will love it.
Vicki Churchill writes for a site that specializes in card making ideas http://www.vickiscardmakingideas.com providing you with excellent tips and ideas for rubber stamping and many other tricks and techniques.
Card Making & Scrap Booking – Best Ways To Use Brads
When I first began card making and scrap booking I though I knew quite a lot however over time I have picked up and learnt so many new tips and tricks and I am sure there is plenty more out there to discover.
One of my favourite accessories for card making is brads, they come in all shapes and sizes and a huge variety of colors.
There are so many things you can do with brads, when I first started card making I purchased some silver and gold brads just to see what I could come up with. I mainly used them to make a template for a word stand out, usually happy birthday. Id cut a piece of card into a rectangle then use peel offs for the words, id find some gold or silver mirror card and mount the words on the mirror card using 3d foam pads.
I would then use a pokey tool to make a hole in the word template all the way through my card, id then put the brads through the holes (one at each end) turn the card over and bend the backs of the brads to hold them in place.
Although this made the card look fantastic it meant that when the card was opened you could see the backs of the brads, so I would either make an insert to hide the backs of the brads or I would cover the back of the card front with another piece of card to hide them.
I did this for almost a year until I realised if I put the brad through the first piece of card where my letters or wording was before I mounted it onto the mirror card the brads would already be in place, I could then use double sided tape to attach the mounted wording to the card. This meant I did not go through the actual card itself so there was no need to cover the inside of the card as the back of the brads could not be seen.
It may seem obvious but it was a long time before I twigged that this is a better way to attach brads to cards.
Brads come in so many different colours however its always the way when your making a card that you never have the colour you want. I had a go at embossing one of my brads and it worked. Follow the same steps as you would for embossing a stamped image, cover the brad in ink the sprinkle your embossing powder over the ink and heat as normal.
Try not to over heat the brad as this can cause it to become fragile and the backs may snap. Using this method means that you make your brad any color you like.
Vicki Churchill writes for a site that specializes in card making ideas http://www.vickiscardmakingideas.com providing you with excellent tips and ideas for rubber stamping and many other tricks and techniques.